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The coastline sits below the Atlantic ocean, and a run along the extensive sea wall reveals the brown water caused by the Amazonian sediment disharge from the mouth of the Orinico. Nature's answer to this set back when compared with Caribbean beaches is an abundance of rivers, creeks, springs, and lakes, hence the identification Guyana: Land of Many Waters. Populated by only 740,000 people who live near the coastal plain, much of Guyana remains a tropical mystery with gold, diamond, rainforests, anacondas, and need we say once more, the best rum in the world. According to Alison Hinds from Square One, "Guyanese come through the cracks, hang from the ceilings," when they sing there. TOK enjoyed performing in Guyana and said that they mashed up GT (they literally did in 2002 when patrons broke the fence down to Banks DIH's Thirst Park venue, responding to the lyrics, "Nuff bwoy a pose like a Shotta and haffi hide when di eagle dem fly." And Rupee says, "Guyanese, dais my people. I real love GT people." It's the home of Mingles, one of whom now sings for Byron Lee whilst wining on his head and the birthplace of the Hot and Groovy, Passion man Militant.
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Mashramani (February 23) Little facts: Consumer
magazine |
Kaieteur
park
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Eddy Grant
Universal Airlines RUM: XM or El
Dorado |
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Maya's Log (from 30 years experience): On my recent visits home I've returned with lots of artwork and clothes, most of which my friends either take or buy from me. You'll find some of the most gorgeous furniture and artwork at Charlotte Street, showplace of Lianacane (some also available in California). At the shops infront of the Georgetown post office I buy clothes from Sela (a mixture of stylish hand painted and batik pieces that are also sold during BAM in NY and the owner, Alison can tell you which bars are in at the time) and wooden sculptures from Toro (just ask anyone who he is...and in Guyana bargaining is allowed). The Hadfield Foundation gallery sells paintings and when you are there ask for Liz of Deane Hughes Designs. Again, a wonderful world of jewelry, clothing and art (some visible at Baobab restaurant in San Francisco). If you're in New York walk into Sybil's restaurant on 133rd and Liberty in Queens to see a collection of Guyanese paintings. On the mall by Bourda market get custom made leather goods and be sure to try every fruit in sight (juicy cashews, gooseberries, guavas, star apples, sapodillas, jamoon, golden apple). You'll never taste a sweeter pineapple than one from Guyanese soil (1 costs ~$200 Guy = 1 US). Find fresh, organic juices at the corner of Croal Street and Orange Walk. Cara Lodge's Bottle restaurant and Dutch Bottle offer terrific food in a more upscale environment. Have a split peas soup for lunch at German's restaurant and tea at the Sidewalk Cafe and chase it with a fresh rum and coconut water. You may be lucky to be in town when the Sidewalk has a live band like Barbadian saxophonist Arturo Tappin. The "in" clubs and bars change so you have to ask around to find out what's hot and what's safe to go to (unfortunately Guyana is being hit hard by a crime wave and you just have to be careful) or whether you just need to find a tucked away spot that plays good music (Guyanese love Oldies and know to three step and be aware that somewhere during the evening you're going to hear "Pink Cadillac").
Like Barbados, having family in Guyana means we never stay in the hotels, but you can check the Pegasus ($130 US/night), Cara Hotels ($85-$180 US/night) or VisitGT for a contact sheet. Careful when booking for Guyana has a plethora of short time places where you pay by the hour (or half hour) for your stay. The Manilla, with its secluded parking lot and air conditioned rooms is a local favorite (we live in that street so know the scoop). When the carnival ends in Trinidad on Ash Wednesday hop on the hour's flight to Guyana ($100 US) for a few days.
THE DEFINITIVE CROSSING-OVER TEST FOR NRG (Non-Resident Guyanese) Yuh start "chatting" instead of "gaffing",
an yuh "hangin' out" instead of "limin'"... EH EH, IS MO YUH WANT? DEN GET METEGEE FROM AMAZON.COM |
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Tour
operators can lead you into the interior for a day trip by a small
plane that stops at Kaiteur Waterfalls (second longest straight
drop) and Orinduk Falls (swim across and say you've been to Brazil)
or go by boat to places like Santa Mission or 
