| Maya's Log
(Carnival 2K4, Carnival 2003, Carnival 1999, Carifesta
1992):
Wednesday ..2003
My good friend and colleague Alesia had just successfully defended
her phd thesis and two weeks prior to carnival felt we deserved
a trip to Trinidad. In a mad rush we surfed for airfares and found
Guyana’s Universal
airlines, a company started by two sisters that operates flights
from NY to Trinidad and Guyana with headquarters in Richmond Hill,
Queen’s otherwise known as Little Guyana. When the company
started the Washington Post reported that the airline left at 10:55
pm to cater for folks who had to work, served curry and roti to
satiate the Guyanese appetite, and cost under $400 US. Though we
were flying for $690 US and entertained by non broadway favorites
from another era, we were high just from the Trini accents that
kept going through the night…obviously they had not been flying
from San Franciso for over 12 hours already. We spotted, as though
by divine intervention, Ronald. Swiftly we changed our accommodation
plans and reasoned to pitch our mattress in the most conveniently
located and hospitable house in Woodbrook (three of us had already
done this in 1999). Many thanks to Ragoo, Gary, Cookie and Ronald
for being such sports and encouraging us to plug jouvay.com as much
as possible even if it meant painting red nailpolish on our bodies
on carnival Tuesday.
Thursday
By 10 am we had to meet the Miami Fly Girls crew to head to our
first party in Toco. Lucky for us we had arranged the $75 US tickets
before arriving in Trinidad for they were sold out. After waiting
for the Fly girls to look fly, the bus ride was a little over an
hour. Specialty drinks were abundant, food stalls lined Michael
Headley’s (owner of Poison) lawns serving Chinese, Shark and
Bake, Curry, Creole, Indian sweets, and fruits. The venue was spectacular
and there were live performances by Militant, Rupee, Oscar B, Jason
Benn, Horyzon, and a live rhythm section. By ten pm it was nearly
over and we had two more parties for that night; Madhatters and
UWI Splash. Jet
lag could not set in for another week. See
pictures here.
Friday
For the next few days our world revolved around eating in Woodbrook,
trying to get a costume for carnival and feting. At the last minute
bay area promoter of Angelmagik had arranged costumes for us with
his mom, Sonia Mack. We are most grateful to Johnathan and forgive
his mathematical miscalculation on the costume discount/coversion
rate given that he’s a Cal Berkeley student and the costume
(~ $275 US instead of $200 US) was in fact very pretty (it is possible
to organize a costume at the last minute for much cheaper with other
sections…just ask around to find a deal). Soca Monarch was
at the oval that Friday night with vibrant and creative performances
of 20 contestants on stage, magnified on three large screens. I
heard that the chutney soca monarch was even more spectacular...Bollywood
style. Rolling with Ragoo I made it backstage where he introduced
me to singers like Iwer George, KMC (I don’t want to know
if I getting horn), Destra Garcia (It’s carnival), Machel
Montano, Giselle (Miami’s Mad House), and Chinese Laundry
(Homeviewtnt.com). It was past midnight, the competition was only
midway, but it was time to fete. Luckily we had advanced VIP tickets
for Girl Power, which meant you had a hassle free entrance with
food and drinks included. The event was sold out, but scalpers sold
regular tickets for twice the cost of ours.
Saturday
was curry day at Patraj on Tragrette road and then a quick
walk to Long Circular mall to collect our finished costumes (Trinis
will advise you that the place "farr" when in fact it's
no more than a 15 minute walk). By 5 pm we were at the Allcarnivals.com
all inclusive at the Trinidad country club ($50 US) with an abundance
of food and booze. The turn out was not huge, but folks were dressed
up and the performances by Imij and Co., Square One, Rupee and Scrunter
made the evening quite lovely. A quick stop home to change into
sneakers and shorts and we were off to MOBS 2 for Insomnia. By 10
am the next morning we were just heading home, Krosfyah still had
the crowd pumping and we had seen most of the big bands and singers
in one venue. Our friends returned around 3 pm that afternoon praising
the breakfast fete in Diamond Vale which many refer to as the original
breakfast fete. See
pictures here.
Sunday
By 4 pm that afternoon we were headed to the Lara all inclusive
Fete ($60 US) at the house of infamous West Indian cricketer, Brian
Lara. Patrons could take shuttle busses from the gate up to the
house (a 2 minute walk) where they were welcomed by body painted
dancers. Folks were dressed up for this party and started to pour
in as the sun set. Again it was an abundance of great food and specialty
drinks and the stage was graced by Bunji and Sahmmi, Rupee, Destra,
Ronnie McIntosh and Atlantik, Machel, Iwer, Fay Ann, Maximus Dan,
and Alison Hinds. The venue was intimate and the crowd definitely
loosened up as the evening progressed. See
Pictures here.
Monday
After taking a 3 hour nap it was time for J’ouvert with 3
Canal. Actually, we got there a little early (2:45 am). Their
registration package included condoms and a note that said call
the 3Canal hotline to find out the point of assembly since it was
a secret to keep non registered revelers from joining in the frenzy.
The hotline never worked and luckily we had played j’ouvert
with them in 1999 (Black Indian Nation) and they were assembled
in the same spot behind the stadium. Whilst most people walked with
their bottle of paint we had plastered ourselves in the grey that
was given to us when we registered for the band ($30 US) thinking
that we had to arrive in “costume”. As folks gathered
the mood was somber because long time 3 Canal collaborator, producer
Andre
Tanker had suddenly died at Soca Monarch that Friday night.
The Laventille rhythm section started to play and 3 Canal got on
the mics to get people on the road. For the first 6 blocks down
Tragrette road Andre Tanker’s creations played. Alcohol stalls
lined the dark streets, paint and more paint was distributed, Militant
was on the truck singing with 3 Canal, bay area friend Peter and
Amira were in the crowd, the followers grew and by mid morning it
was difficult to recognize anyone we jumped with.

After barely making it home and scrubbing away at the paint (someone
suggested oiling yourself with petroleum jelly to make this task
easier) we were dressed off in our partial costumes and out combing
the streets looking for Poison with its 10,000 masqueraders. Rumor
was that the band was on the highway behind the stadium, charting
a course of its own. In the front you'll find designer Sonia Mack
and a few trucks back will be the islandevents.com section with
Machel Montano who's got enough wines for all the women in the band.
Carnival Tuesday. By 8 am we were dressed, drinking,
and at the corner of Rosalina and Arapita avenue waiting for Poison
to pass (it took us about an hour to figure out that we were watching
Poison and the front section was way ahead). Lucky for us we soon
found our lawyer, Peter Balogh, who had his personal drink cart
close to the front. The day just disappeared and ended at midnight
after the last song played at the last lap jam at the Oval.

Ash Wednesday. The two cool down beach fetes were
at Maracas and Manzanilla. Rather than heed the advice of DJ Back
to Basics to head to Maracas before 9 am, we spent about 3 hours
in traffic from 3 pm and arrived at sunset to find a restless crowd.
Good company, great views, roasted corn and pickled fruits saved
the afternoon. Finding a good lime that night proved difficult.
Many folks had already hit Tobago for real R&R.

Pitch Lake, Tobago beaches (photos courtesy of Amira Jackmon)
Much thanks to Ruel Ward, Francis Ragoo, and Myrtle
Malcolm for arranging tickets for us and Johnathan Mack for hooking
us up with LA Violeta...if we decide once again at the last minute
that we must go to carnival we sure hope to be in the POISON Retromania
front section as a Solid Gold dancer with a Cleopatra headpiece
and beaded skirt. And again thanks to Ronald, Cookie, Gary and Ragoo
for the hospitality.
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