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Maya's Log (Carnival 2K4, Carnival 2003,
Carnival 1999, Carifesta 1992):
Wednesday ..2003
My good friend and colleague Alesia had just successfully defended her
phd thesis and two weeks prior to carnival felt we deserved a trip to
Trinidad. In a mad rush we surfed for airfares and found Guyana’s
Universal airlines,
a company started by two sisters that operates flights from NY to Trinidad
and Guyana with headquarters in Richmond Hill, Queen’s otherwise
known as Little Guyana. When the company started the Washington Post reported
that the airline left at 10:55 pm to cater for folks who had to work,
served curry and roti to satiate the Guyanese appetite, and cost under
$400 US. Though we were flying for $690 US and entertained by non broadway
favorites from another era, we were high just from the Trini accents that
kept going through the night…obviously they had not been flying
from San Franciso for over 12 hours already. We spotted, as though by
divine intervention, Ronald. Swiftly we changed our accommodation plans
and reasoned to pitch our mattress in the most conveniently located and
hospitable house in Woodbrook (three of us had already done this in 1999).
Many thanks to Ragoo, Gary, Cookie and Ronald for being such sports and
encouraging us to plug jouvay.com as much as possible even if it meant
painting red nailpolish on our bodies on carnival Tuesday.
Thursday
By 10
am we had to meet the Miami Fly Girls crew to head to our first party
in Toco. Lucky for us we had arranged the $75 US tickets before arriving
in Trinidad for they were sold out. After waiting for the Fly girls to
look fly, the bus ride was a little over an hour. Specialty drinks were
abundant, food stalls lined Michael Headley’s (owner of Poison)
lawns serving Chinese, Shark and Bake, Curry, Creole, Indian sweets, and
fruits. The venue was spectacular and there were live performances by
Militant, Rupee, Oscar B, Jason Benn, Horyzon, and a live rhythm section.
By ten pm it was nearly over and we had two more parties for that night;
Madhatters and UWI Splash. Jet lag could not
set in for another week. See
pictures here.
Friday
For the next few days our world revolved around eating in Woodbrook, trying
to get a costume for carnival and feting. At the last minute bay area
promoter of Angelmagik had arranged costumes for us with his mom, Sonia
Mack. We are most grateful to Johnathan and forgive his mathematical miscalculation
on the costume discount/coversion rate given that he’s a Cal Berkeley
student and the costume (~ $275 US instead of $200 US) was in fact very
pretty (it is possible to organize a costume at the last minute for much
cheaper with other sections…just ask around to find a deal). Soca
Monarch was at the oval that Friday night with vibrant and creative performances
of 20 contestants on stage, magnified on three large screens. I heard
that the chutney soca monarch was even more spectacular...Bollywood style.
Rolling with Ragoo I made it backstage where he introduced me to singers
like Iwer George, KMC (I don’t want to know if I getting horn),
Destra Garcia (It’s carnival), Machel Montano, Giselle (Miami’s
Mad House), and Chinese Laundry (Homeviewtnt.com). It was past midnight,
the competition was only midway, but it was time to fete. Luckily we had
advanced VIP tickets for Girl Power, which meant you had a hassle free
entrance with food and drinks included. The event was sold out, but scalpers
sold regular tickets for twice the cost of ours.
Saturday
was curry day at Patraj on Tragrette road and then a quick walk
to Long Circular mall to collect our finished costumes (Trinis will advise
you that the place "farr" when in fact it's no more than a 15
minute walk). By 5 pm we were at the Allcarnivals.com all inclusive at
the Trinidad country club ($50 US) with an abundance of food and booze.
The turn out was not huge, but folks were dressed up and the performances
by Imij and Co., Square One, Rupee and Scrunter made the evening quite
lovely. A quick stop home to change into sneakers and shorts and we were
off to MOBS 2 for Insomnia. By 10 am the next morning we were just heading
home, Krosfyah still had the crowd pumping and we had seen most of the
big bands and singers in one venue. Our friends returned around 3 pm that
afternoon praising the breakfast fete in Diamond Vale which many refer
to as the original breakfast fete. See
pictures here.
Sunday
By 4 pm that afternoon we were headed to the Lara all inclusive Fete ($60
US) at the house of infamous West Indian cricketer, Brian Lara. Patrons
could take shuttle busses from the gate up to the house (a 2 minute walk)
where they were welcomed by body painted dancers. Folks were dressed up
for this party and started to pour in as the sun set. Again it was an
abundance of great food and specialty drinks and the stage was graced
by Bunji and Sahmmi, Rupee, Destra, Ronnie McIntosh and Atlantik, Machel,
Iwer, Fay Ann, Maximus Dan, and Alison Hinds. The venue was intimate and
the crowd definitely loosened up as the evening progressed. See
Pictures here.
Monday
After taking a 3 hour nap it was time for J’ouvert with 3
Canal. Actually, we got there a little early (2:45 am). Their registration
package included condoms and a note that said call the 3Canal hotline
to find out the point of assembly since it was a secret to keep non registered
revelers from joining in the frenzy. The hotline never worked and luckily
we had played j’ouvert with them in 1999 (Black Indian Nation) and
they were assembled in the same spot behind the stadium. Whilst most people
walked with their bottle of paint we had plastered ourselves in the grey
that was given to us when we registered for the band ($30 US) thinking
that we had to arrive in “costume”. As folks gathered the
mood was somber because long time 3 Canal collaborator, producer Andre
Tanker had suddenly died at Soca Monarch that Friday night. The Laventille
rhythm section started to play and 3 Canal got on the mics to get people
on the road. For the first 6 blocks down Tragrette road Andre Tanker’s
creations played. Alcohol stalls lined the dark streets, paint and more
paint was distributed, Militant was on the truck singing with 3 Canal,
bay area friend Peter and Amira were in the crowd, the followers grew
and by mid morning it was difficult to recognize anyone we jumped with.

After barely making it home and scrubbing away at the paint (someone
suggested oiling yourself with petroleum jelly to make this task easier)
we were dressed off in our partial costumes and out combing the streets
looking for Poison with its 10,000 masqueraders. Rumor was that the band
was on the highway behind the stadium, charting a course of its own. In
the front you'll find designer Sonia Mack and a few trucks back will be
the islandevents.com section with Machel Montano who's got enough wines
for all the women in the band.
Carnival Tuesday. By 8 am we were dressed, drinking,
and at the corner of Rosalina and Arapita avenue waiting for Poison to
pass (it took us about an hour to figure out that we were watching Poison
and the front section was way ahead). Lucky for us we soon found our lawyer,
Peter Balogh, who had his personal drink cart close to the front. The
day just disappeared and ended at midnight after the last song played
at the last lap jam at the Oval.

Ash Wednesday. The two cool down beach fetes were at
Maracas and Manzanilla. Rather than heed the advice of DJ Back to Basics
to head to Maracas before 9 am, we spent about 3 hours in traffic from
3 pm and arrived at sunset to find a restless crowd. Good company, great
views, roasted corn and pickled fruits saved the afternoon. Finding a
good lime that night proved difficult. Many folks had already hit Tobago
for real R&R.

Pitch Lake, Tobago beaches (photos courtesy of Amira Jackmon)
Much thanks to Ruel Ward, Francis Ragoo, and Myrtle Malcolm
for arranging tickets for us and Johnathan Mack for hooking us up with
LA Violeta...if we decide once again at the last minute that we must go
to carnival we sure hope to be in the POISON Retromania front section
as a Solid Gold dancer with a Cleopatra headpiece and beaded skirt. And
again thanks to Ronald, Cookie, Gary and Ragoo for the hospitality.
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